Specification:Flashing, gutter and drain repair and in kind replacement

__NUMBEREDHEADINGS__ =GENERAL=

DESCRIPTION
 This specification provides appropriate general repair methods for flashing, gutter and drain repair . This specification has been developed for use on historic properties (defined as any district, site, building, structure, or object that is listed in or eligible for listing in the National Register of Historic Places) and provides an overview of accepted practices. All work described herein and related work must conform to the Secretary of Interior’s Standards for the Treatment of Historic Properties. The Contractor shall provide all labor, materials, equipment, and operations required to complete the rehabilitation work indicated herein. All work described herein and related work must have the approval of a Cultural Resources Manager, Conservator, Historic Architect, or other professional who meets the standards outlined in the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards – Professional Qualifications Standards pursuant to 36 CFR 61. Such person is referred to in this document as the Architect. The Architect will provide site-specific specifications, when appropriate.  

SECTION INCLUDES
 Gutters and Drains – Inspection and Maintenance</li> Gutters and Drains – In Kind Replacement</li> Flashing - Inspection and Maintenance</li> Flashing - In Kind Replacement</li> </ol>

RELATED SECTIONS
<ol type="A"> 04100 – Historic Mortar</li> 04110 – Historic Stucco</li> 04211 – Historic Brick</li> 04500 – Masonry Restoration</li> 05010 – Historic Metal</li> 07300 – Wood Shingle Roofing</li> 07315 – Slate Roofing</li> 07321 – Clay Tile Roofing</li> 07600 – Metal Roofing</li> 07900.01 – Joint Sealer Properties and Application</li> </ol>

SUBMITTALS
<ol type="A"> Repair Schedule: Submit a detailed schedule to the Architect for approval of all areas where flashing, gutters, downspouts and drains are to be repaired or replaced. Schedule shall include an assessment of existing conditions, identification of elements that are to be replaced, and specifications for replacement materials.</li> Product Literature: </li> Submit manufacturer’s product literature to the Architect for all gutter and flashing products specified. Product literature shall include specification data, Material Safety Data Sheets and instructions for storage, handling and use.</li> <li>Samples: Submit to the Architect, for approval, samples of all materials and styles of replacement elements that are to be used. Provide one sample of each fastener required.</li> <li>Submit shop drawings for all new custom-fabrications showing dimensions, location of joints and details of joint types, edge details, and terminations. Field survey existing conditions prior to submission of shop drawings.</li> <li>The field survey shall include photographs. The Contractor shall be prepared to submit photo documentation before, during, and after the work.</li> </ol>

QUALITY ASSURANCE
<ol type="A"> <li>Work Experience: The Contractor shall have a minimum of seven years experience in roofing, flashing, guttering and architectural metalwork for historic buildings, and be able to demonstrate a working knowledge of the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards and Guidelines for Historic Preservation. Submit examples of similarly executed and finished similar projects using the appropriate materials.</li> <li>Warranty: The Contractor shall provide, in writing, a warranty for ten years against all defects in materials and workmanship.</li> </ol>

MOCK-UPS
<ol type="A"> <li>Procedure: Following approval of submitted samples and prior to start of work, prepare a minimum of one mock-up for each type of flashing installation that is to be used. For gutters, downspouts and drains, provide manufacturer’s cut sheets, as applicable, and prepare one full-size mock-up for each type of element that is to be replaced in kind. Prepare mock-up panels on comparable metal type to demonstrate quality of materials and workmanship. Obtain the supervising Architect’s acceptance of structural and visual qualities before proceeding with the work. Retain acceptable mock-ups in undisturbed condition, suitably marked, during construction as a standard for judging completed work.</li> <li>Number of Mock-ups: More than one mock-up may be required to be acceptable for approval. The Contractor shall prepare up to three mock-ups of each type, if required by the Architect, without further compensation. Approved test panels shall become part of the work and shall serve as the quality standard for all similar work.</li> <li>Joint Samples: Submit a 12-inch long sample of each type of metal joint required (e.g., lock and solder; lap, rivet, and solder; etc.). Approved samples shall be the standard for joints to be used in the completion of the work. Work shall not begin until sample seams are approved. Sample seam must be submitted for each mechanic proposed to undertake work on this project. Mechanics whose seams are rejected will not be permitted to undertake sheet metal work on this project.</li> </ol>

DELIVERY, STORAGE AND HANDLING
<ol type="A"> <li>Deliver restoration materials and proprietary products to the project site in manufacturer’s or distributor’s packaging, undamaged, complete with application instructions and Material Safety Data Sheets. Store new sheet metal materials in a secure location, away from general construction operations to avoid loss or damage.</li> <li>Store and transport cleaning agents, chemicals, and solvents within the temperature range recommended by the manufacturer and away from direct sunlight. Handle all materials following manufacturer’s instructions.</li> <li>Deteriorated metal materials that are removed and not reused shall be salvaged, separated and set aside for recycling. Do not discard.</li> </ol>

PROJECT / SITE CONDITIONS
<ol type="A"> <li>The Contractor is responsible for protecting existing adjacent materials during the execution of the work. Provide all necessary protection and work procedures to avoid damage to existing material assemblies not a part of the work of this Section. If there is threat of inclement weather, provide temporary flashing for areas of new metal flashing that cannot be installed.</li> <li>   Installer of gutters and flashings shall be responsible for providing protection of the interior of the building from damage by weather. Installer shall be responsible for repairs or replacement of interior damaged materials at no additional cost to, and to the satisfaction of, the Owner.</li> <li>The Contractor shall coordinate the work of this Section with the other trades involved in exterior and interior restoration work including, but not limited to, structural repairs, carpentry, roofing, masonry, sealants, and painting.</li> <li>Use of torches and continuously heated irons will not be permitted on this Project for soldering of sheet metal. Appropriately sized irons heated in a fire pot must be used.</li> <li>The Contractor shall be responsible for disposal of waste materials and other debris associated with the work of this Section in accordance with local, state and federal environmental regulations. All salvaged metal shall be separated and set aside for recycling. </li> </ol> =PRODUCTS=

IN KIND REPLACEMENT – GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS AND DRAINS
<ol type="A"> <li>Materials <ol> <li>Historic gutters, downspouts, scuppers, drains and associated hardware shall be replaced in kind to match the existing in design, materials and, as practicable, workmanship. Furnish all materials and fabrication required to match original.</li> <li>Copper and Copper Alloys <li>Copper, ASTM B 370, Grade H00 (cold rolled)</li> <li>Formed gutter liners for box gutters shall be 24 oz. copper.</li> <li>Hung gutters, downspouts, elbows and associated fittings shall be minimum 16 ounces copper, rectangular or round section to match existing. Dimensions shall be as indicated on the Drawings. </li> </ol> </li> <li>Lead-Coated Copper <li>Lead-coated copper meeting ASTM B101-96, Type I, Class A. Copper sheets shall be cold-rolled, 16 ounces per square foot, with 15 pound lead coating. </li> </ol> </li> <li>Terne Coated Stainless Steel <li>Type 304 stainless steel sheet coated with 50 percent zinc / 50 percent tin alloy to a thickness of 20 microns, 26 gauge for gutters.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Aluminum <li>In areas where theft of copper is a threat, the use of aluminum downspouts may be considered.</li> <li>ASTM B209 84, aluminum, alloy 3003, temper H14, gauge 0.032 inch. Exposed surfaces, color anodized.</li> </ol> </li> </ol> </li> </ol>

IN KIND REPLACEMENT - FLASHING
<ol type="A"> <li>General: Flashing is an integral part of a roofing system and protects against water infiltration at roof hips and valleys, penetrations such as chimneys, where roofing meets a vertical surface such as a parapet or at a porch roof, or at drip edges.</li> <li>Materials: To match existing, if original. Note: Different metals should not be mixed. Rainwater runoff from copper flashing will corrode both galvanized sheet metal and stainless steel through galvanic action (see Section 05010.01, Metal Identification and Failures). Flashing material must be compatible with the rest of the roof system. <ol> <li>Copper and Copper Alloys Copper, ASTM B 370, Grade H00 (cold rolled), 16 ounce (0.0216 inch) minimum for flashing.</li> <li>Lead-Coated Copper Lead-coated copper meeting ASTM B101-96, Type I, Class A. Copper sheets shall be cold-rolled, 16 ounces per square foot, with 15 pound lead coating. </li> <li>Terne Coated Stainless Steel Type 304 stainless steel sheet coated with 50 percent zinc / 50 percent tin alloy to a thickness of 20 microns, 28 gauge for flashing. </li> <li>Galvanized Steel <li>26 gauge galvanized steel</li> <li>Inorganic Zinc-Rich Primer: Zinc dust-zinc oxide primer (to paint galvanized flashing).</li> </ol> </li> </ol> </li> </ol>

SOLDER
<ol type="A"> <li>Solder Metal: ASTM B32, Standard Specification for Solder Metal. Provide solder as appropriate to the metal to be repaired. <ol> <li>Copper: 50 percent tin and 50 percent lead.</li> <li>Lead-Coated Copper: 60 percent tin, 40 percent pig lead</li> <li>Terne Coated Stainless Steel: 100 percent tin</li> </ol> </li> <li>Flux: Flux shall be compatible with solder and substrate metal. <ol> <li>Copper: Muriatic acid neutralized with zinc, or approved commercial brand of flux for copper.</li> <li>Lead-Coated Copper: FS-O-F-506C or manufacturer’s standard muriatic or phosphoric acid type, neutralized with zinc.</li> <li>Terne Coated Stainless Steel: Zinc chloride</li> </ol> </li> </ol>

EQUIPMENT
<ol type="A"> <li>Safety belt or harness; protective gloves and gear.</li> <li>Chicken ladder; ladders and scaffolding.</li> <li>Straight snips for cutting straight or curved lines in sheet metal 24 gauge or lighter.</li> <li>Handy tongs (for bending the edges of the solder)</li> <li>Hawk; pointing trowel</li> <li>Soldering and welding equipment, as required.</li> </ol>

FASTENERS
<ol type="A"> <li>Nails for copper and lead-coated copper shall be copper, 0.109 inch gauge minimum, large head ring shank or annular ring, and of sufficient length to penetrate wood roof deck not less than one inch. </li> <li>Nails for galvanized steel shall be galvanized, .098 gauge minimum, large head, and of sufficient length to penetrate wood substrate at least one inch.</li> <li>Nails for terne-coated metal shall be stainless steel nails. Nails shall be 0.109 inch gauge minimum, large head ring shank or annular ring, and of sufficient length to penetrate wood roof deck not less than once inch. </li> <li>Rivets for copper or lead-coated copper: &quot;Pop&quot; type, copper with brass mandrel, 1/8 inch diameter by 1/4 inch long, to be approved by Architect. Contractor to verify length of rivet such that projection of popped rivet behind or below pans being joined is minimized (see Paragraph 1.04, Submittals).</li> <li>Rivets for terne-coated metal and aluminum: &quot;Pop&quot; type, stainless steel, 1/8 inch diameter by 1/4 inch long, to be approved by Architect. Contractor to verify length of rivet such that projection of popped rivet behind or below pans being joined is minimized.</li> <li>Cleats: For flashings and gutters shall be same metal and weight as metal being cleated, unless otherwise indicated on the Drawings. Cleats shall be two inches wide by three inches long.</li> <li>Provide rack and key hangers for support of downspouts. </li> </ol>

ACCESSORY PRODUCTS
<ol type="A"> <li>Outlet Domes: Solid bronze (copper or lead-coated copper gutters) or stainless steel (terne coated or aluminum gutters), dome type strainer to fit over gutter outlets, horizontal flange at base, to be approved by Architect. Verify size prior to ordering.</li> <li>Slip sheet: Rosin-surfaced building paper, minimum five pounds per 100 square feet.</li> <li>Felt underlayment: Asphalt saturated organic felt, Type II (30 pounds), ASTM D 226. The use of roofing felts under copper is generally not recommended because the bitumen in the felts may have a negative reaction with the copper.</li> <li>Ice and water shield: For ice dam protection shall be 40 mils cold applied self-adhering membrane, consisting of 0.004 inch polyethylene film coated on one side with adhesive consistency of rubberized asphalt, and with silicone coated release sheet, complying with ASTM D 1970.</li> <li>Reglet wedges: Fabricate from four pounds per square foot copper bearing lead sheet, ASTM B 749, Type L51121. Fold 1 inch wide strip as many times as required to fill space between flashing and reglet.</li> <li>Lead Wool: Fine strands of 99.9 percent pure lead, to be approved by the Architect.</li> <li>Sealant: Clear Silicone Rubber Sealant, to be approved by the Architect.</li> </ol>

FABRICATION
<ol type="A"> <li>Shop fabricate gutter and flashing work as much as is practical for handling and installation. Fabricate as per details on the Drawings. For details not indicated, refer to Architectural Sheet Metal Manual, SMACNA.</li> <li>Inside and outside corners of flashings and gutters shall be mitered, riveted, and soldered. Add small gusset plates as required to complete corners of all flanges.</li> <li>Seams in copper elements shall be pre-tinned. Seams in copper gutter liners shall be 1-1/2 inches lapped, riveted, and soldered seams. Rivets shall be staggered two inches on center with 1/2 inch edge distance.</li> <li>Gutter linings shall be break formed in the shop (field breaking will not be permitted) to tightly fit the profile of the gutter. Verify profile with site conditions. Note: No “play” will be permitted in the gutter trough between the new gutter liner and the substrate.</li> <li>Hem all flashing edges 1/2-inch</li> <li>Lock and solder all joints other than expansion joints.</li> <li>Neatly form joints and seams with surfaces free from waves and buckles.</li> </ol> = EXECUTION=

GENERAL
<ol type="A"> <li>Flashing, gutters, downspouts and drains are all essential components of a functioning moisture protection system for buildings. Their condition and regular maintenance are of critical importance in helping to avoid potential future problems with water infiltration and damage to historic building fabric. This Section is intended to give an overview of steps for their inspection and maintenance as well as general guidelines for their in-kind replacement.</li> <li>After removal of existing work as indicated, inspect substrate surfaces for unsatisfactory conditions and report such deficiencies to the Architect. Do not proceed until corrective measures have been completed to provide satisfactory surface. Contractor shall inspect wood surfaces. Wood surface must be dry and smooth. Ensure that there are no projections to puncture underlayment, flashings, or gutter linings.</li> <li>Box gutters: When areas of removed gutter lining will not be replaced in the same day, provide temporary covering to prevent penetration of water or moisture to interior. Any damage to interior finishes shall be repaired and refinished by the Contractor to the Architect and Owner's satisfaction and at no cost to the Owner.</li> <li>Prevent unnecessary walking on the installed gutter liners.</li> <li>All joints to be soldered shall be prepared by cleaning to bright metal before joining. Cleaned area shall extend beyond actual joint dimension. Pre-tin joints before soldering where possible. </li> <li>All joints to be soldered shall be soldered the same day as joint is formed to prevent intrusion of moisture and dirt into joint. If joint cannot be soldered on the same day it is formed in place, cover joint to prevent intrusion of dirt, water and moisture.</li> <li>Soldering: All soldering shall be done slowly with well-heated irons. Place heated iron on top of prepared seam to be soldered. Heat all layers of metal within seam thoroughly to above temperature of molten solder. Sweat solder completely through all layers and full width of seam. Wherever possible, all soldering shall be done in flat position. <ol> <li>To aid in soldering seams in flat position, form pans, remove for soldering, solder, and reinstall whenever possible.</li> <li>Buckling during soldering can result in weaker joints because the solder is disrupted during cooling. If buckling is a problem, spot puddle solder and fill in between the puddles to help distribute the heat over a larger area.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Coordinate gutter and flashing work with installation of roofing, replacement of deteriorated framing and sheathing, restoration of exterior wood trim, and chimney work as applicable. Install existing downspouts as soon as outlet tubes are completed to prevent damage to exterior masonry walls and interior finishes.</li> <li>Anchor units of work securely in place by methods indicated, providing for thermal expansion of metal units; conceal all fasteners, and set units true to line and levels as indicated. Install work with laps, joints, and seams that will be permanently watertight and weatherproof.</li> <li>Do not proceed with the fabrication and installation of new flashing and gutters, including gutter liners, until required shop drawings and test panels have been reviewed and approved by the Architect.</li> <li>Work fabricated and/or installed without prior shop drawing and test panel review is carried out at the Contractor’s own risk. Said risk includes rejection of the work by the Architect and removal and reinstallation of the work in accordance with approved shop drawings/test panels at no additional cost to the Owner. Contractor should not assume that retrofitting of rejected work will be acceptable.</li> <li>Rivets shall be installed from below whenever possible, such that popped end of rivet is exposed to view to help ensure that thermal movement can take place freely.</li> </ol>

GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS – INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
<ol type="A"> <li>For steep roofs, inspect hanging gutters from ladders. Do not rest ladders on sheet metal gutters. Establish roof foot traffic regulations for inspection of built-in gutters.</li> <li>Check for interior deterioration which might point to gutter and/or roof problems.</li> <li>Inspect for buildup of debris and vegetation such as moss or lichen. Biological material excretes corrosive acids, and is more likely to accumulate where there is improper gutter sloping.</li> <li>Check for adequate slope and drainage towards downspouts during cleaning.</li> <li>Make sure all downspout connections have properly installed wire strainers. Strainers will block large debris and leaves that can block downspouts and sewer lines.</li> <li>Inspect for gutters that are split or cracked with loose, broken, or out of place hangers, corners or slopes; pulling of fasteners, broken joints or seams; or excessive staining or punctures of gutter fabric.</li> <li>Inspect joints frequently; repair cracks immediately.</li> <li>Look for corrosion around nails. Roof cement on gutters may hide leaks that have not been corrected.</li> <li>Check for deterioration of adjacent roof and soffit areas, and behind downspouts. Look for peeling paint or stains, or eroded mortar joints on adjacent surfaces.</li> <li>Inspect the underside of the roof cornices. Water stains may be evidence of ice dams.</li> <li>Install soffit ventilators in the cornice to help cornice dry out and ward off rot after periodic leaks of water into the woodwork. Minimize heat loss in winter by proper insulation of attic spaces.</li> <li>Any gutter liners made of tin, galvanized steel, or terne metal should be kept painted.</li> <li>In addition to scheduled inspections, inspect after each exposure to unusually severe weather conditions such as strong winds, large snowfall, or long continuous rains.</li> <li>Examine gutters as a part of the annual roof inspection and repair defects immediately. Have a competent roofer inspect the fabric and the joints for concealed cornice and roof areas leading to major defects.</li> <li>Carry out a professional survey every five years.</li> <li>In the autumn, check gutters and clean as necessary once a week from the time the leaves begin to fall until they have all fallen. Monthly inspections are recommended during winter months to ensure nothing impedes the flow of water thereby causing an ice dam in freezing weather.</li> </ol>

GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS AND DRAINS – IN KIND REPLACEMENT
<ol type="A"> <li>Save and recondition all original fabric unless found to be unserviceable. Consult with the supervising Architect to determine if an original element is unserviceable. Flat sheet members may be replaced in kind where this facilitates the overall restoration and when original lines, dimensions, and workmanship are maintained.</li> <li>Provide elements to match existing. Fabricate in shop or on site as necessary. Follow details in SMACNA, Architectural Sheet Metal Manual.</li> <li>All work including tinning, soldering, and metal forming shall be performed to highest standards to produce weatherproof, properly seamed, joined, and soldered work, free from surface stains and wrinkled or buckled finishes.</li> <li>Reinforce seams and folds as required to prevent binding or tearing.</li> <li>Seal over all exposed fastenings in horizontal and wash surfaces with matching metal caps or Dutchmen and solder.</li> <li>Exterior work shall be constructed and installed to be permanently watertight.</li> <li>Connect gutter drops to existing rain drains.</li> </ol>

FLASHING – INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
<ol type="A"> <li>Flashing shall function as it was intended when there are no cracks, splits or torn areas. It shall not show any signs of corrosion. Where flashing meets a vertical surface, all cap flashing should be secure and the flashing itself should be soundly anchored. To keep water from flowing underneath the flashing, flashing shall not be installed on top of roofing, siding, or stucco weather barriers. </li> <li>Check flashings as a part of the annual roof inspection, preferably in late autumn. Repair defects immediately, as flashing is a critical part of the roof fabric. Small leaks in the flashing that are neglected may lead to major faults in the roof system.</li> <li>Outside, inspect flashing for splits, holes or corrosion.</li> <li>Inside, inspect the underside of the roof deck for evidence such as water stains or damp wood; inspect the ceiling and walls around fireplaces and chimney flues for stained or spalling plaster or wallpaper, or peeling paint.</li> </ol>

FLASHING – IN KIND REPLACEMENT
<ol type="A"> <li>Surface Preparation <ol> <li>Examine, measure, and record existing flashing and its method of application. Take note of reglet details and methods of fastening sheets together.</li> <li>Select sheetmetal type to be used making sure it is compatible with the roofing material, existing flashing on the roof, the gutters and the downspouts. Use gauge of metal suitable for strength and required performance. Install according to metal manufacturer’s instructions.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Cutting and Bending – General <ol> <li>Mark all bends, cuts, and notches which will be required using existing pieces as patterns. Regular metal cutting shears can cut 16 ounce. copper, or 26 gauge galvanized steel.</li> <li>To aid in forming the bends on base and counterflashing aprons, clamp a 2 x 4 board over the flashing piece, with the bending line at the edge of the worktable. Use an additional 2 x 4 board as blocking to place against flashing and bend it into a 90-degree bend by striking it with a hammer. To create a hem, unclamp and continue hammering against a 2 x 4 board to bend metal edge over again.</li> <li>Cut base flashing pieces so that they will extend under the shingles a minimum of four inches and up the chimney face a minimum of four inches. The total length of each piece will depend on the exposure of the shingles.</li> <li>Counterflashing pieces must overlap the base flashing by a minimum of four inches. At corners there should be a two inches for double overlap.</li> <li>Rosin paper should be laid on the roof decking beneath the base flashing if none exists. Use only copper nails with copper flashing, or hot-dipped galvanized nails if using galvanized sheet metal. The nails should be sized to allow for at least one inch penetration into roof deck.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Cracking <ol> <li>Remove entire section of cracked flashing; cut out damaged area the full width of the piece.</li> <li>Replace piece with similar metal; join the new piece using a lock seam, loose, sealant filled seam or by lapping, riveting and soldering. The method of joining will depend on the type of metal selected and the surrounding conditions. </li> </ol> </li> <li>Outward Buckling <ol> <li>Examine flashing to determine cause of buckling. Lack of expansion joints for length of       sheet metal may have led to the problem.</li> <li>Remove entire length of affected flashing.</li> <li>Inspect condition of backing material: <li>For wood, remove and replace damaged material as required.</li> <li>For bituminous felt, remove felt and replace with heavy weight rosin-sized sheathing paper.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Clean bituminous felt with a solvent such as mineral spirits.</li> <li>Reinstall the sheet metal flashing; add expansion joints as needed.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Splitting of Solder at the Seam <ol> <li>If damage is localized, replace all affected metal with new metal to match existing or substitute compatible metal. </li> <li>If damage is widespread, remove entire length of flashing and replace it to match existing.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Cracked Sealant <ol> <li>Remove sealant.</li> <li>Clean metal using a solvent such as mineral spirits.</li> <li>Check width of joint to make sure it is at least 1/4 inch wide. If it is less than 1/4 inch, carefully move the metal edges to allow a 1/4 inch gap.</li> <li>Prime surfaces of joint following manufacturer's instructions.</li> <li>Check depth of joint. If joint is at deeper than 5/8 inch and there is no backing material, insert a continuous backing rod.</li> <li>Fill the joint with sealant following manufacturer's instructions.</li> <li>Immediately remove excess sealant from the face of the metal.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Crumbling and Powdering Metal <ol> <li>If damage is localized, replace all affected metal with new metal to match existing or substitute compatible metal. </li> <li>If damage is widespread, remove entire length of flashing and replace it to match existing.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Pitting and Corrosion <ol> <li>If damage is localized, replace all affected metal with new metal to match existing or        substitute compatible metal. </li> <li>If damage is widespread, remove entire length of flashing and replace it to match existing.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Chimney Flashing <ol> <li>Reglet: The reglet is the slot cut into the chimney mortar joints into which the cap flashing is set. It goes straight across the front and is stepped along the two sides. If there is not a cricket at the back of the chimney the reglet slot is also straight across. <li>Cut the slot by hand using a cold chisel. If approved by the Architect, experienced operators may also use a diamond blade with a water spray attachment in a hand-held circular saw, a portable grinder, or a circular saw with a carbide masonry blade.</li> <li>Cut the top and bottom portions of the joint to a depth of 1-1/2 inches, being careful not to cut the brick.</li> <li>Use a cold chisel to knock out mortar between cuts.</li> <li>Any mortar replacement and brick repairs that may occur as a result must conform to Historic Brick-Related Sections 04211 01 and 04211 02.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Apron Counterflashing <li>For each piece of counter flashing, bend a 1/2-inch lip on the edge that slips into the reglet.</li> <li>Slide the apron counter flashing into the reglet, overlapping the corners about four inches. A hem can be bent into this piece as well to provide extra stiffening.</li> </ol> </li> <li>Overlap the base flashing a minimum of 4 inches. It can however, extend all the way down the vertical surface.</li> <li>Set rolled metal wedges, no more than 12 inches apart, to hold cap flashing into the reglet. Use lead or copper if flashing is copper. Use lead if flashing is galvanized.</li> <li>Stepped Counterflashing <li>Insert pieces of counter flashing, overlapping each succeeding piece two inches. Trim the bottom edge of each piece to follow the slope on the roof.</li> <li>Each piece should step up above the previous piece a maximum of three courses of brick.</li> <li>Overlap base flashing by at least four inches, or allow it to come all the way down the vertical wall if desired.</li> <li>Insert rolled metal wedges to hold the counter flashing tight. Insert a minimum of two wedges per piece of counter flashing, no more then 12 inches on center.</li> <li>The final piece of cap flashing at the rear of the chimney should include a minimum two-inch return at each end.</li> </ol> </li> </ol> </li> </ol>

TESTING
<ol type="A"> <li>Flood Testing: At the completion of each section of new gutter or gutter liner, the Contractor shall temporarily plug the outlet tubes at their bottom ends and fill gutter with water to a level just below the reglet. Gutter shall remain filled for eight hours. The Contractor shall monitor interior and exterior of building for leaks in the gutter liner. <ol> <li>Upon completion of flood test, plug gutter outlet, unplug outlet tube, connect outlet tube to new downspout, unplug gutter outlet and permit water to drain completely.</li> <li>If leaks occur during the flood test, drain gutter immediately as above, repair area of leakage, and repeat flood test. The Contractor shall be responsible for damage caused by leaks and shall repair to the satisfaction of and at no additional cost to the Owner.</li> </ol> </li> </ol>

FINAL REPORT
<ol type="A"> <li> Provide a final report of complete work including all approved submittals, survey of areas where flashing, gutters or drains are to be repaired or replaced in kind, and photographs of the treated areas taken before, during and after the executed work.</li> </ol>